Ground Control sway bars for the e46 M3 & MZ4

Ground Control sway bars for the e46 M3 & MZ4

These instructions are to be used as a supplement to the factory service manual. Procedures described here address the differences between the original parts and the aftermarket parts. At no time should these instructions supercede any part of the factory directions.

Step 1: Remove factory sway bars according to factory service manual.

2: Remove rear subframe bushing bolts and large cup-shaped washers. Flip washers over so cup is upward, drop provided washer (from this bag) into recess and reinstall bolts. Torque to factory spec.(see.1)
3. Install rear sway bar, starting by putting the drivers' side up over the exhaust and rotating the passenger side upward into position with the arms ending up between the axle and control arm. (Just like stock)

4. On either the stock sway bar, or our sway bar, it is easiest to bolt the end link to the steel upper bracket (using the stock bolt) first, and then bolt the bracket to the aluminum control arm. We have provided a supplemental half-moon piece to make this easier, by allowing the nuts to be tightened from below without holding onto the bolt from above. (See 2):

5. Assemble rear sway bar clamps to subframe, using the stock bolts in conjunction with the provided washers. Push the clamps into the upper position, and the sway bar should be almost touching the axle with the suspension in the drooped position. Adjust endlink length if needed. Snug the clamp to subframe bolts, but do not tighten all the way, they will be tightened after the car is on the ground.

6. Center the rear bar at this time, sliding the split collars up against the O-rings, which will in turn, be against the urethane bushing. These should have about 1/16 inch gap per side.

7. The front sway bar is a direct replacement for the stock bar, and bolts up exactly like stock, using the stock nuts and washers on the frame clamps. Be sure to place the stainless upper washer/adapter on the strut tab opposite the flat washer and nut.

8. The initial lenght adjustment of the front endlink, is for theclamp to be about 10-14mm above the top of the lower arm, when the car is jacked up and the front wheels hanging

9. Final adjustment to remove preload: After corner-weighting the car with the sway bars loose, you will do the final tightening. The front is conventional, using the turnbuckle end links to remove preload, with the front wheels straight ahead.

10. The rear is unconventional, because the end links are inaccessible. Tighten the bar clamps to the subframe, tilting one end of the sway bar down if necessary to remove preload. This must be done with car on the ground, and steering wheel centered.

If you have any questions at all, please call: (530) 677-8600
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